Vermicomposting
Composting is foundational to not only an organic garden, but also a less wasteful home ecosystem. Vermicomposting, or worm composting is a method for using composting worms, oftentimes red wrigglers to consume and process kitchen scraps. After the worms churn through your food waste they leave behind castings rich in nitrogen and highly beneficial for plants.
How to integrate vermicomposting into your household waste management.
The same kitchen scraps (potato peels, carrot peels, coffee grinds, etc.) that you toss in the outdoor compost bin can also be fed to worms. Oftentimes, worms will make it into your outdoor compost bin, as they are key macro-organisms in the composting and soil health cycle. Vermicomposting is a more concentrated activity meant to use greater worm density and often a specific type of composting worm to consume household waste.
Because composting worms pretty much each half their weight per day, you can divert pounds of daily household waste to your worm farm should you choose to do so. In my case, I started with one pound of worms and then realized my family's organic waste could likely sustain quadruple that amount. So, I doubled the amount of worms and plan to build two additional worm receptacles and breed some of the worms over time. Green matter not consumed by the worms is sent to my outdoor composting receptacles.
Bins
You can build a vermicomposting bin by using a plastic or wooden receptacle, just make sure it is well ventilated as the worms need oxygen to live. I wanted to test a couple of the popular, well-reviewed worm bins on the market, so I started with the Worm Factory and recently ordered Can o'worms. Both of these bins feature a downspout that allows one to drain compost tea from the bin.
Worms
Most vermicomposters use red wrigglers (eisenia foetida) as their worm workhorse of choice. These worms graze intensely at the top two-three inches of soil. They are quite active. I twice ordered red wrigglers from Buckeye Organics.
Getting Started
Prep whatever bin you choose with worm bedding such as shredded newspaper, along with some compost to generate bacterial activity within your bin. Place a sheets of wet newspaper over the compost, bedding, and initial food to maintain much-needed moisture within the bin. I use a spray bottle filled with rain water from my rain barrels to keep the contents of the bin moist. The bin should not be too wet, sort of like a wrung out sponge. Prep your bin before the worms arrive. Worms prefer to live in the same temperature as humans, 40-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Plan to keep your worms in an area with this range, oftentimes a garage or basement.
Feed
The worms enjoy shredded green matter like vegetable peels. The finer the particles, the better since it increases the surface area of the organic matter and allows the bacteria and worms to process the matter more efficiently. So, shred the veggie peels in a blender if you have space to do so. I maintain one small compost bin for worm feed and a larger one for the outdoor compost bin. I place a layer of shredded newspaper, followed by a layer of green matter, followed by a layer of either more newspaper, torn up leaves, or dryer lint. The ratio of brown to green is often 3:1 brown:green, though the best means for knowing what to add is the smell. The smell of your compost feed and the worm bin should be like a damp basement. Your worms will thrive in that environment.
Introducing worms to the bin-the first days
When your worms arrive make sure your bin is ready. There needs to be a balance in the worm bin before you introduce the worms. If it has food and bedding and smells like a damp basement, the worms should be happy. They will explore straight away and if the bin is in balance they will be set for a long time, perhaps the 15 years of their lifespan!
The worms may ball up when they first enter your bin. This is normal. Place them in the bin and then place a few sheets of moist newspaper over them. I place 3-5 sheets of newspaper and then spray with rain water.
Worm Anatomy and Reproduction
Composting worms (typically red wrigglers/eisenia fetida will reproduce quickly given the correct habitat. The worms live near the surface of the soil/bedding (often the top two-three inches) and eat a lot (often 1/4 to 1/2 of their body weight each day).
The worms do not have teeth, instead they consume take soft/decomposing food in very small bites, the bedding of the worm bin (decomposing newspaper), and bacteria surrounding the food scraps. The food will enter their gizzards where it is ground by small bits of tough matter, like sand particles. The food particles eaten by worms will travel the entire length of their bodies before it is processed into a nitrogen rich worm casting. These castings are organic fertilizer.
All worms can reproduce since each worm has both male and female organs. This does not mean the worm can automatically reproduce. The worm must mate with another worm. Mature worms will join themselves by an organ near their heads, the clitellum. The worms will join by this body part and are attached via very small hairs on their bodies. After about three hours, the worms exchange fluids and develop a small cocoon that eventually moves down their bodies and hatches after a few months with one-two baby worms. Amazingly, the hatchling will only hatch if the conditions are right (temperature, moisture), otherwise the cocoon, which is tough, will wait.
When to feed and maintaining balance
I suggest visiting the worm farm every couple of days to gauge conditions and food intake. Most often, I need to apply moisture because my worms are in a dry basement. I usually must add food every couple of days. I maintain the earthy smell in my worm bins and then feel confident in the conditions. If you overfeed the worms the balance will be disrupted. By maintaining moisture and a proper ration of carbon/nitrogen in what you add to the bin, you will provide an environment that will allow the worms to thrive.
When to collect and use castings
Most worm farms are designed with an "up-migration" style in which trays are added on top of the current worm level with food added to the new trays. The worms will move up the system, leaving casting behind in the lower trays. Those lower trays contain worm castings that can be applied to your garden, trees, and shrubs. The castings are completely balanced, with a ph of 7.0, making them an ideal additive to your soil ecosystem, especially if your soil is low on organic matter or compacted.
Deterring pests/fruit flies
I have not had the issue of pests in my bin. I suggest keeping a wet newspaper cover over the bedding and keeping the worm bin in balance. That seems to work in deterring pests.
How to integrate vermicomposting into your household waste management.
The same kitchen scraps (potato peels, carrot peels, coffee grinds, etc.) that you toss in the outdoor compost bin can also be fed to worms. Oftentimes, worms will make it into your outdoor compost bin, as they are key macro-organisms in the composting and soil health cycle. Vermicomposting is a more concentrated activity meant to use greater worm density and often a specific type of composting worm to consume household waste.
Because composting worms pretty much each half their weight per day, you can divert pounds of daily household waste to your worm farm should you choose to do so. In my case, I started with one pound of worms and then realized my family's organic waste could likely sustain quadruple that amount. So, I doubled the amount of worms and plan to build two additional worm receptacles and breed some of the worms over time. Green matter not consumed by the worms is sent to my outdoor composting receptacles.
Bins
You can build a vermicomposting bin by using a plastic or wooden receptacle, just make sure it is well ventilated as the worms need oxygen to live. I wanted to test a couple of the popular, well-reviewed worm bins on the market, so I started with the Worm Factory and recently ordered Can o'worms. Both of these bins feature a downspout that allows one to drain compost tea from the bin.
Worms
Most vermicomposters use red wrigglers (eisenia foetida) as their worm workhorse of choice. These worms graze intensely at the top two-three inches of soil. They are quite active. I twice ordered red wrigglers from Buckeye Organics.
Getting Started
Prep whatever bin you choose with worm bedding such as shredded newspaper, along with some compost to generate bacterial activity within your bin. Place a sheets of wet newspaper over the compost, bedding, and initial food to maintain much-needed moisture within the bin. I use a spray bottle filled with rain water from my rain barrels to keep the contents of the bin moist. The bin should not be too wet, sort of like a wrung out sponge. Prep your bin before the worms arrive. Worms prefer to live in the same temperature as humans, 40-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Plan to keep your worms in an area with this range, oftentimes a garage or basement.
Feed
The worms enjoy shredded green matter like vegetable peels. The finer the particles, the better since it increases the surface area of the organic matter and allows the bacteria and worms to process the matter more efficiently. So, shred the veggie peels in a blender if you have space to do so. I maintain one small compost bin for worm feed and a larger one for the outdoor compost bin. I place a layer of shredded newspaper, followed by a layer of green matter, followed by a layer of either more newspaper, torn up leaves, or dryer lint. The ratio of brown to green is often 3:1 brown:green, though the best means for knowing what to add is the smell. The smell of your compost feed and the worm bin should be like a damp basement. Your worms will thrive in that environment.
Introducing worms to the bin-the first days
When your worms arrive make sure your bin is ready. There needs to be a balance in the worm bin before you introduce the worms. If it has food and bedding and smells like a damp basement, the worms should be happy. They will explore straight away and if the bin is in balance they will be set for a long time, perhaps the 15 years of their lifespan!
The worms may ball up when they first enter your bin. This is normal. Place them in the bin and then place a few sheets of moist newspaper over them. I place 3-5 sheets of newspaper and then spray with rain water.
Worm Anatomy and Reproduction
Composting worms (typically red wrigglers/eisenia fetida will reproduce quickly given the correct habitat. The worms live near the surface of the soil/bedding (often the top two-three inches) and eat a lot (often 1/4 to 1/2 of their body weight each day).
The worms do not have teeth, instead they consume take soft/decomposing food in very small bites, the bedding of the worm bin (decomposing newspaper), and bacteria surrounding the food scraps. The food will enter their gizzards where it is ground by small bits of tough matter, like sand particles. The food particles eaten by worms will travel the entire length of their bodies before it is processed into a nitrogen rich worm casting. These castings are organic fertilizer.
All worms can reproduce since each worm has both male and female organs. This does not mean the worm can automatically reproduce. The worm must mate with another worm. Mature worms will join themselves by an organ near their heads, the clitellum. The worms will join by this body part and are attached via very small hairs on their bodies. After about three hours, the worms exchange fluids and develop a small cocoon that eventually moves down their bodies and hatches after a few months with one-two baby worms. Amazingly, the hatchling will only hatch if the conditions are right (temperature, moisture), otherwise the cocoon, which is tough, will wait.
When to feed and maintaining balance
I suggest visiting the worm farm every couple of days to gauge conditions and food intake. Most often, I need to apply moisture because my worms are in a dry basement. I usually must add food every couple of days. I maintain the earthy smell in my worm bins and then feel confident in the conditions. If you overfeed the worms the balance will be disrupted. By maintaining moisture and a proper ration of carbon/nitrogen in what you add to the bin, you will provide an environment that will allow the worms to thrive.
When to collect and use castings
Most worm farms are designed with an "up-migration" style in which trays are added on top of the current worm level with food added to the new trays. The worms will move up the system, leaving casting behind in the lower trays. Those lower trays contain worm castings that can be applied to your garden, trees, and shrubs. The castings are completely balanced, with a ph of 7.0, making them an ideal additive to your soil ecosystem, especially if your soil is low on organic matter or compacted.
Deterring pests/fruit flies
I have not had the issue of pests in my bin. I suggest keeping a wet newspaper cover over the bedding and keeping the worm bin in balance. That seems to work in deterring pests.
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